Into the Mystic

Where am I? St. Jean Pied-de-Port
How far did I walk today? 5 miles (8 km)

We’ve passed 60 hours since landing in Europe and my bag still is not here. I’m trying not to loose it on a U.S. Airways representative, but the only thing helping me is that they will not answer the phone.

I had to change hotels, so I ended up in a place that may not have been updated since the 1940’s. Still, it was a place to sleep for a night, and only cost €55.

Rather than sit in the hotel all day, I decided to take the first steps of my Camino. I walked from St. Jean-Pied-de-Port to Orrison, a little village 8 km (5 miles) away. While this might sound like a peaceful stroll, it was possibly the toughest 2.5 hour workout I’ve had in years.

Traditionally, the first stage is from St. Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles, roughly 25 km (15.5 miles) However, that walk includes an elevation gain of 4,000 feet! Many guidebooks suggest stopping in Orisson if you are out of shape, because the first 5 miles lifts you 2100 feet from the start.

I intended to ignore that advice, but based on my bag predicament, I walked to Orisson and returned by taxi. I was getting a little over confident by the halfway mark, and then the path got really steep. Imagine the hill at Strath Haven’s football practice field / softball fields, but going for about a 1.5 miles. Clouds were forming at a certain point. My Fitbit said I walked the equivalent 248 flights of stairs today!

I left pretty late (12 pm), but there was a family walking the same time. They did not speak English, but it was still nice to have someone around. Watching them struggle as well was a little reassuring, but then I remembered I was walking without my bag.

When I returned, I broke down and bought some extra clothes. The gentleman who sold me the power converter helped me find a shirt that fit. It’s bright yellow and makes me look like either Big Bird or the leader of the Tour de France, but it is what it is. When I asked about underwear, he directed me to the supermarket.

After taking a bath (no shower curtain in the room) and changing, I went out for dinner. I met a group from New Jersey and ate with them. The one lady walked the Camino two years ago, and brought her husband and friend back to see the main sights by car.

I just learned the bag is still in Brussels. I may need an apartment here!