Keep the Chains Moving

Where am I? Nájera

How far did I walk today? 30 km / 18.6 miles

Pictures later!


I tried to rest my feet yesterday, but they still were struggling this morning as I left Logroño. I was wincing with each step through the gorgeous park in the outskirts of town.

I was already making contingency plans, and became more convinced that I was not going to last more than a day or two. The negative thoughts continued until I reached the first village, Navarette.

I stopped for breakfast, and opened my guidebook. I then realized I already walked 8 miles, and there was another village 4 miles away. If I could get there, I could say I made at least half the day’s progress.

When I got to Vantrosa, I took my shoes off during lunch to give my feet some air. The Columbian woman who sat at my table admitted similar problems with her feet, and already checked into a hotel. As my feet seemed to recover and I saw most the others leave for the final 7 miles to Nájera. I decided to go for it.

Yes, this went against my whole post yesterday, and one reader already called me out on it (love you mom!), but I still felt it was the most rational move.

There are no albergues between Vantrosa and Nájera, so I would have to make up the 11km difference tomorrow and cut tomorrow’s stage shorter. I also knew the forecast called for rising temperatures as the heat wave continues, including a forecast of 102 F for Tuesday. I knew the next two stages in the guidebook were shorter (12-13 miles), so I could follow the script the next couple of days, rest my legs, and beat the heat. If I cut off after 11 miles today, it would throw off the whole week to Burgos.

So it looks like low mileage this week with a possible rest day Friday in Burgos. Hopefully my feet harden up by then so I can make up ground on the flat Meseta next week.

More importantly, I’m starting to meet people again and really enjoyed walking through the vineyards of La Roja today. At least I enjoyed it from the neck up…

Public Service Announcement
I forgot to mention an encounter last Wednesday that may be of interest. Coming out of Pamplona, I had several run-ins with a gentleman raising awareness for animal welfare in Spain. He walked the Camino in the past, and noticed the number of dogs chained to fences throughout Spain primarily to harass loiterers and those trespassing. They teamed up with an animal rescue group, and are walking 8 dogs along the Camino. Check out their site at stopchaining.org

Conversation of the Day
Along the last stretch going to Nájera, I stopped under a shade tree at the same time as a lively group I had seen earlier in the day. I asked where they were from, and learned two were from Bulgaria and one from Sicily. I then said I was from Philadelphia.

“So you cannot smoke weed there, right?” asked a Bulgarian.
“Yeah, that’s only in Colorado,” said the Sicilian.
“That’s true.” I responded.

“So why would you live in Philadelphia?” asked the Bulgarian.
“Seriously, you should buy a big house in Colorado, and let us live there!” added the Sicilian.

Clearly, they don’t know me that well.

On a more serious note, we got to talk about how we learned about the Camino and why we’re walking.

The Bulgarian’s explanation hit home: “I wanted to finish something. I’m tired of quitting stuff. I quit almost everything back home.”

It was a powerful explanation for walking the Camino, and it meant a lot to a guy who thought a lot about quitting this morning.

Today was not a remarkable day on the trail, other than finding a way to move the chains forward and continue the drive to Santiago.