Three Little Birds

Where am I? Roncesvalles, Spain
How far did I walk today? 10.6 miles on trail, 14.3 miles total


This was the toughest morning so far in St. Jean-Pied-de-Port because I stayed in an albergue. I had to wake up with everyone around me starting their journey. A woman I met at the Philadelphia Chapter of Camino Pilgrims flew out three days after me and began walking today.

So I went to the same park I visited yesterday, and laid down on a park bench and put in my headphones. (I’m less self-conscious when I’m overseas.)

I tried to think of what I learned from this experience stranded in St. Jean-Pied-de-Port. I didn’t feel like I learned anything new, but got some poignant reminders:

1. We always pack too much. I really didn’t need everything in that bag, and I can definitely trim it down when it arrives.

2. Even when the deck seems stacked against you, it never helps to get negative. I just need to remember this at home more.

3. Bob Marley can always help relieve stress.

While I was on that bench, Marley’s “Three Little Birds” came on my phone’s playlist (Don’t worry about a thing / cause every little thing is gonna be alright) as I could hear birds singing all around.

Then the phone buzzed. U.S. Airways baggage e-mailed saying the bag was at Paris CDG Airport, and they wanted to know where I wanted it sent.

“When can you get it down here, because that will affect the address,” I responded.

“We cannot get it there until Tuesday.”

It was the best bad news I got all week. I at least I had a firm answer where the bag was, and I had a timeframe. Two words came to mind: I’m leaving!

I woke my parents up with a phone call at 5:45 AM, to make sure we were on the same page. (Sorry!) Then I responded:

“Send it to Pamplona. I’ll get you a hotel address later today.”

I then went to my favorite merchant in town, and Peter greeted me again for the 4th day. I told him I needed a water bottle, and then I was taking a taxi to Orrison to walk to Roncesvalles.

“I can drive you if you can wait a few minutes,” he responded.

This is why everyone should shop at Direction Compestelle in St. Jean-Pied-de-Port!

While he was waiting for his employee to bring his keys from the other store, I quickly booked a hotel in Pamplona for Tuesday and e-mailed the address to US Airways.

It was a beautiful day, and the ride up was great. When Peter dropped me off, he refused to accept my money. Instead, he gave me a flyer with his e-mail and asked me to send a picture from Santiago.

The 17.1 km / 10.6 mile walk was challenging, but the scenery kept me energized. I got to Orisson at 1 PM, so it was the heat of the day (83 F). It was another 2,000 foot elevation gain, but not as steep. The biggest challenge though was the 1,500 foot descent at the end. Keeping my momentum from sending me barreling down hill was tough, and I wiped out once. By the time I reached Roncesvalles, I was looking pretty rugged.

Still, it felt good to be on the road. I’m missing some essentials (towel, sleeping sheet, sleeping clothes), but I can get by for a day or two. (Assuming I get my bag Tuesday as they say.) The albergue here is very cool, and a bed and a 3 course dinner cost me €22. Nice!

I’m may need to to make some tough choices as I move forward though. I so not think I can walk to Finisterre before the festival unless I cut a stage or two off by bus. We’ll see how the next few days go, but I may not make it past Santiago.